So I realise another blog entry is long overdue. I want to post before I move on to the next place, where ever that may be. I've completely fallen in love with Hampi. Set in a beautiful landscape of rust coloured boulders and startlingly green paddy fields and banana plantations, Hampi is an oasis within India. A group of us arrived here after 12 hours on a government bus, the sort of bus that doesn't look particularly road-worthy and is only meant to sit 20 people but 50 people somehow manage to squeeze on. After that very long and uncomfortable journey, Hampi had a lot to live up to. So many people have told me that it is their favourite place here in India, so I was really expecting something amazing. And it is! The tiny 'town' comprising of one main street and a maze of guesthouses and shops is surrounded by crumbling Hindu temples which take days to explore. We've clambered up hills to watch the sun rise and set, pottered about the town and temples on bicycles, discovered waterfalls, had morning yoga classes and hired scooters for the all essential booze cruise to the nearest big town.
Before Hampi, a group of us took the night train to Om Beach in Gokarna. It felt really good to be moving again. It was really hard saying goodbye to many of the friends I had made on Study India, especially as some of them I had travelled with since my arrival in India. The long train journey was a good time to reflect on the programme in Mumbai. The final week of the programme was a bit of an anti-climax, we had a couple of poor lectures and a few things were cancelled because of the monsoon. We did have a few amazing evenings though, one night we performed Puja for the Ganesh festival which involved a lot of incense, flowers and candles then hours of dancing. Similarly, our final night in Mumbai was Indian-themed, we all wore traditional Indian formal clothes, the whole event was so sparkly and brightly coloured!
The sleeper train to Gokarna was fun and full of activity. A constant steady stream of men selling delicious samosas, bhajis and cones of bombay mix; as well as food magazines, pillows and toys were also for sale. Not much sleeping took place, especially as we had a loud group of singing and clapping Hare Krishnas on our carriage. Om Beach itself was quiet and peaceful, and probably quite beautiful beneath the rain. We spent a couple of soggy days there, enjoying rainy swims in the sea and long nights in the beach bar.
Feeling a little apprehensive about the next few weeks, for a number of reasons. I don't really have a plan and it is hard saying goodbye to friends. Plus I've lost my camera charger so I haven't been able to take photos for about a week. And I still have so much to look forward to in India, 6 months is beginning to feel like a long time.
Sending you all lots of love, I'll post again soon. E-mail me with all your news from home, however mundane and apologies for not replying often.
xxx
Sunday, 12 September 2010
Thursday, 2 September 2010
Study India
Describing itself as "an intellectual and aesthetic journey through India", the Study India programme has been the perfect introduction to my stay in India. I will certainly be using my experiences here as a springboard for the rest of my travels. The programme itself is pretty intense, far more so than Study China was. We are shepherded from one activity to another, with little free time to explore the city ourselves. I have learnt a lot from the activities and lectures organised by the programme. It has actually renewed my thirst for learning, and I am leaning towards the possibility of further study. We have had a number of inspiring lectures, covering topics such as Indian traditions and values, Gandhian economics, Indian Cinema and the curious tradition of Dabbawallas. We've been taught Bollywood dancing, Hindi and lots about religion.
As part of the programme, we all took part in a volunteering scheme for a week. My placement was with Mumbai Mobile Creches, which is a school for the children of construction workers. The school was really impressive, colourful walls decorated with the children's work. It was well run and organised, the children has a daily routine which was fairly rigidly stuck too. The main teacher was really enthusiastic and inspirational, even though he spoke little English. The school is at the foot of a construction site for luxury apartment buildings. The construction workers live on site, in a small slum with their families. Yet another example of the ludicrous divide between the rich and the poor. The problem with NGO work is that it is difficult to know how much a difference you can make, especially as we were only there for a week. We spent most of our time playing with the children, teaching them a little English and helping them with their school work.
At times I have not really enjoyed the programme, many of the lectures have been of little interest to me. But I have met some amazing friends, so it hasn't really mattered if the programme hasn't been perfect.
As part of the programme, we all took part in a volunteering scheme for a week. My placement was with Mumbai Mobile Creches, which is a school for the children of construction workers. The school was really impressive, colourful walls decorated with the children's work. It was well run and organised, the children has a daily routine which was fairly rigidly stuck too. The main teacher was really enthusiastic and inspirational, even though he spoke little English. The school is at the foot of a construction site for luxury apartment buildings. The construction workers live on site, in a small slum with their families. Yet another example of the ludicrous divide between the rich and the poor. The problem with NGO work is that it is difficult to know how much a difference you can make, especially as we were only there for a week. We spent most of our time playing with the children, teaching them a little English and helping them with their school work.
At times I have not really enjoyed the programme, many of the lectures have been of little interest to me. But I have met some amazing friends, so it hasn't really mattered if the programme hasn't been perfect.
Thoughts from Mumbai
Mumbai has been my home now for 3 weeks, it will be strange to leave the city tomorrow. When I was travelling the week before Study India began, I found it hard moving to a new place every other day. But being a tourist in one city for 3 weeks is difficult. I have itchy feet (literally, I have never had so many insect bites) and am looking forward to moving around again. Tomorrow, a small group of us are heading south to the coastal town of Gokarna. It will be good to travel within a small group again, there are a daunting number of students on the Study India programme.
Mumbai is a city of contrast. I have repeatedly fallen in and out of love with it. One evening last week, we walked back along the Queen's Necklace (the semi-circular shoreline marking the edge of the metropolis) after watching a fairly awful Indian comedy about an aged Parsi couple. The city is beautiful at night, the air a little cooler and the lights dazzling. Mumbai is remarkably different from the rest if India, at times it doesn't feel like India at all. In the 'centre' (if there is one), there are no rickshaws or wandering cows. Just endless crowds of people, traffic and Western shopping malls. The poverty gap is scarily apparent, more so than anywhere else I have ever been. It is difficult to describe or even to understand how such wealth can live alongside such extreme poverty.
In our freetime outside of the Study India Programme, we have attempted to explore/escape in and around Mumbai. We visited the hill station Matheran on the coldest, wettest day we have had in India. Error. The station was at the top of a hill, reachable only by winding muddy paths. We hiked 2km in torrential rain to reach Panaromic Point, an apparently good spot for a view. Unfortunately, due the the torrent of rain we could see nothing at all. We never actually reached the hill station itself, we sought refuge from the storm in a dingey bar. There was no electricity, so we drank by candlelight, dreading the walk back down the hill in the monsoon rain. Another weekend, we took a boat to Elephanta Island. A fairly horrid place, still reeling from the effects of the oil spill of the coast of Mumbai. The island had a number of carved caves to explore. Quiet and empty, these caves were a good escape from the city.
So whilst I have really enjoyed my time here, I will be happy to leave the city tomorrow and continue my travels south.
Mumbai is a city of contrast. I have repeatedly fallen in and out of love with it. One evening last week, we walked back along the Queen's Necklace (the semi-circular shoreline marking the edge of the metropolis) after watching a fairly awful Indian comedy about an aged Parsi couple. The city is beautiful at night, the air a little cooler and the lights dazzling. Mumbai is remarkably different from the rest if India, at times it doesn't feel like India at all. In the 'centre' (if there is one), there are no rickshaws or wandering cows. Just endless crowds of people, traffic and Western shopping malls. The poverty gap is scarily apparent, more so than anywhere else I have ever been. It is difficult to describe or even to understand how such wealth can live alongside such extreme poverty.
In our freetime outside of the Study India Programme, we have attempted to explore/escape in and around Mumbai. We visited the hill station Matheran on the coldest, wettest day we have had in India. Error. The station was at the top of a hill, reachable only by winding muddy paths. We hiked 2km in torrential rain to reach Panaromic Point, an apparently good spot for a view. Unfortunately, due the the torrent of rain we could see nothing at all. We never actually reached the hill station itself, we sought refuge from the storm in a dingey bar. There was no electricity, so we drank by candlelight, dreading the walk back down the hill in the monsoon rain. Another weekend, we took a boat to Elephanta Island. A fairly horrid place, still reeling from the effects of the oil spill of the coast of Mumbai. The island had a number of carved caves to explore. Quiet and empty, these caves were a good escape from the city.
So whilst I have really enjoyed my time here, I will be happy to leave the city tomorrow and continue my travels south.
Wednesday, 1 September 2010
Belated tales from Rajasthan
Apologies for the very belated start to this blog. No excuses really, there just never seems to be enough time. I am also a little nervous about writing a travel blog, I'm not overly confident that I will be able to express myself and my experiences that well. Oh well, here goes...
So I've been in India for 4 weeks now, I'm not totally over the culture-shock and I'm beginning to wonder if one ever gets used to the way of life here. It has been raining most of the time during my stay in Mumbai, which at least has helped with the heat. The rain, heat and humidity add to the feeling of unfamiliarity in India. These conditions, coupled with the enormity of the city and the incessant car horns and crowds of people can be really exhausting. I am thankful that I travelled a little in Rajasthan before arriving here.
Rajasthan
After meeting up with two other girls, Joanna and Phoebe, we left Delhi and took a train to Jaipur. I would be lying if I said I was sad to have left Delhi. Whilst part of me loved the chaos, the heat and crowds were relentless. Delhi was however, exactly how I had pictured India to be. Unbearably hot, noisy and full of people spitting, shouting and sweating. Not to mention the cows. Travelling with two like-minded girls made the whole experience much more bearable. We spent most of our time in Jaipur on the roof terrace of our hostel (beer is very cheap in India). Our group of three grew quickly to a group of seven. We all left Jaipur on a train to Ajmer. From Ajmer, we took a bus to Pushkar.
Pushkar was a beautiful place, the kind of town you could end up staying in for weeks. Even in the few days we were there, it really felt like we got to know the place and the people well. It was refreshing to be able to safely walk around alone and without the need for a rickshaw. Our 'hotel' was fairly dire, with resident geckos, man-eating ants and flying black beetles. Oh, and the toilet flushed directly onto our bedroom floor (when we had running water). Much of our party had fallen ill in one-way or another so it wasn't really the best place to be staying when a flushing toilet was kind of essential. The bonus to staying somewhere horrid, it that you have no inclination to spend any time there. I spent one afternoon just drinking chai, sitting in a jewellery 'shop' watching a ring being made. It was such a refreshing experience, to feel safe, comfortable and relaxed. It was fascinating to watch the comings and goings of this little shop, the jeweller appeared to help most of the population of Pushkar in one way or another. At some point he even left me to sit and guard his shop while he disappeared on some errand.
From Pushkar, we took a local bus to Ajmer. We boarded the bus just as a heavy monsoon shower fell, it was fairly scary as our rickety bus made its wobbly descent amidst muddy flood water. At first we weren't too worried, that was until the locals became increasingly agitated. I did however enjoy the journey, a glimpse into the apparent chaos caused by just ten minutes of rainfall. So from this exciting, dynamic journey to the poverty-stricken town of Ajmer. As we left the bus, there was a lot of hassle, stares and begging. The station was horrible, sleeping adults and children covered the station floor, swarmed by flies.
We had a long, fun journey to Udaipur sitting in general class with crowds of locals. Joanna, Phoebe, Beth and I instantly fell in love with Udaipur. Sparkling coloured lights reflected off the tranquil lake, the sounds of beeping carhorns a distant memory. Our rooms were beautiful too, with balconies over-looking the lake. In the morning we met a friendly Indian-Canadian woman, and we spent the morning with her visiting the Palace and exploring the streets on foot. Wandering around Udaipur is like exploring a European town, a maze of winding streets lined with shops and stalls. Unfortunately I was ill for most of my stay here, but luckily I am coming back to stay here with Daddy in October.
There is a small queue forming so an update from my 3 weeks in Mumbai will have to wait. Sorry! Thank you all for my lovely e-mails, sorry if I don't reply to them all.
xxx
So I've been in India for 4 weeks now, I'm not totally over the culture-shock and I'm beginning to wonder if one ever gets used to the way of life here. It has been raining most of the time during my stay in Mumbai, which at least has helped with the heat. The rain, heat and humidity add to the feeling of unfamiliarity in India. These conditions, coupled with the enormity of the city and the incessant car horns and crowds of people can be really exhausting. I am thankful that I travelled a little in Rajasthan before arriving here.
Rajasthan
After meeting up with two other girls, Joanna and Phoebe, we left Delhi and took a train to Jaipur. I would be lying if I said I was sad to have left Delhi. Whilst part of me loved the chaos, the heat and crowds were relentless. Delhi was however, exactly how I had pictured India to be. Unbearably hot, noisy and full of people spitting, shouting and sweating. Not to mention the cows. Travelling with two like-minded girls made the whole experience much more bearable. We spent most of our time in Jaipur on the roof terrace of our hostel (beer is very cheap in India). Our group of three grew quickly to a group of seven. We all left Jaipur on a train to Ajmer. From Ajmer, we took a bus to Pushkar.
Pushkar was a beautiful place, the kind of town you could end up staying in for weeks. Even in the few days we were there, it really felt like we got to know the place and the people well. It was refreshing to be able to safely walk around alone and without the need for a rickshaw. Our 'hotel' was fairly dire, with resident geckos, man-eating ants and flying black beetles. Oh, and the toilet flushed directly onto our bedroom floor (when we had running water). Much of our party had fallen ill in one-way or another so it wasn't really the best place to be staying when a flushing toilet was kind of essential. The bonus to staying somewhere horrid, it that you have no inclination to spend any time there. I spent one afternoon just drinking chai, sitting in a jewellery 'shop' watching a ring being made. It was such a refreshing experience, to feel safe, comfortable and relaxed. It was fascinating to watch the comings and goings of this little shop, the jeweller appeared to help most of the population of Pushkar in one way or another. At some point he even left me to sit and guard his shop while he disappeared on some errand.
From Pushkar, we took a local bus to Ajmer. We boarded the bus just as a heavy monsoon shower fell, it was fairly scary as our rickety bus made its wobbly descent amidst muddy flood water. At first we weren't too worried, that was until the locals became increasingly agitated. I did however enjoy the journey, a glimpse into the apparent chaos caused by just ten minutes of rainfall. So from this exciting, dynamic journey to the poverty-stricken town of Ajmer. As we left the bus, there was a lot of hassle, stares and begging. The station was horrible, sleeping adults and children covered the station floor, swarmed by flies.
We had a long, fun journey to Udaipur sitting in general class with crowds of locals. Joanna, Phoebe, Beth and I instantly fell in love with Udaipur. Sparkling coloured lights reflected off the tranquil lake, the sounds of beeping carhorns a distant memory. Our rooms were beautiful too, with balconies over-looking the lake. In the morning we met a friendly Indian-Canadian woman, and we spent the morning with her visiting the Palace and exploring the streets on foot. Wandering around Udaipur is like exploring a European town, a maze of winding streets lined with shops and stalls. Unfortunately I was ill for most of my stay here, but luckily I am coming back to stay here with Daddy in October.
There is a small queue forming so an update from my 3 weeks in Mumbai will have to wait. Sorry! Thank you all for my lovely e-mails, sorry if I don't reply to them all.
xxx
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